When the World Came to Chicago


Further Memories of the Midland
By H.C. Chatfield-Taylor

C
arpenters were hammering frantically one afternoon in order to finish a temporary floor in the Auditorium on which little feet in satin slippers were soon to glide beside spurred heels. Florists, meanwhile, were attaching garden garlands to gilded balconies, and nimble decorators, high up on ladders, were fastening banners of red and yellow silk— the oro y sangre of Spain—to Venetian masts, when into the midst of this hubbub came the governor of a sovereign State, very red in the face, to demand of a pair of tired young men why a box for the ball of that evening bad not been reserved for him.

One of the young men was John L. Chamberlain, then a first lieutenant of artillery, but now, so has time flown, a retired major-general, with a D. S. M. for "exceptionally meritorious service" as inspector-general of the armies of the United States. The other was the writer of these memories, functioning as secretary of the Inaugural Reception Committee of the World's Columbian Exposition of which brave and stately General Nelson A. Miles was the chairman, its members being Hempstead Washburne, Mayor of Chicago; Marshall Field; George M, Pullman; and N. K. Fairbank. For days and days Lieutenant Chamberlain had been helping me to solve the seemingly insoluble problem of how to place in forty boxes, of six chairs each, at least four hundred importunate officials each of whom demanded not a seat only, but an entire box labeled with his name and rank in letters so large that all who ran might read. Before a wrathful governor began to upbraid us for a fancied slight to his dignity as ruler of a great and glorious commonwealth, we had been prodding carpenters, florists, and decorators for hours and hours, while counting the precious moments that remained to us ere John Philip Sousa's bandsmen were due to play a march dedicated to a great republic, and its dignitaries to appear upon a floor not yet finished, while the figures "1492-1892" blazed forth on a stage where banners were still being hung to slender poles.

Just when the anger of one who had not had the politeness to reply to a courteous invitation had reached its apogee, a citizen who was either a camcriere del Papa, or something quite as hierarchical, appeared upon the scene to demand with more politeness than his Excellency had shown, yet with equal insistence, the tickets for the box of his Eminence Cardinal Gibbons. Now, it happened that the secretary of an exposition which was holding its dedicatory ceremonies six months before its doors were to open in order to make prospective exhibitors aware of its existence had failed not only to inform Chamberlain and me that this great prelate had been invited to attend them, but that he was actually in Chicago, accompanied by Archbishops Satolli and Ireland. Luckily, we had had the foresight to retain for such an emergency the tickets for a box which, although well situated, bore the number thirteen. But between the demands of an angry governor and an insistent camcriere, we were in a quandary until, putting our heads together, we came to the conclusion that whereas the chief executive of a State was able, no doubt, to create a rumpus within its confines, a cardinal might, if offended, spread an unfavorable impression of Chicago's cherished enterprise throughout the entire Christian world. To the emissary of his Eminence, therefore, the tickets for box thirteen were given, his Excellency being placated by the inclosure within red ribbons of six orchestra chairs, and the hanging upon a neighboring pillar of a flag on which were blazoned the arms of a commonwealth.

When the last banner had been hung and the last nail driven, my able coadjutor and I dressed in a jiffy and bolted a hasty dinner; then, with the assistance of a corps of white-gloved young men wearing red-and-yellow sashes across their shirt-bosoms, we formed upon a floor completed but an hour before a receiving-line composed of a score of the city's most prominent ladies, with Mrs. Potter Palmer, beautiful and bejeweled, at its head.

An ungracious chief executive of the nation having remained in Washington, our next duty was to marshal the members of the cabinet, the diplomatic corps, and the Supreme Court, together with the governors of some thirty States, their gold-braided staffs, and sundry senators, congressmen, and officers of the army and navy, all in order of precedence behind Vice-President Morton, who, being "kind and affable to every creature," fulfilled a definition of a gentleman made centuries ago.

This task performed, Sousa, on a sign from me, raised his baton; whereupon the most imposing array of personages Chicago has ever beheld filed in slow procession into the Auditorium, to dazzle with gorgeous costumes, stunning uniforms, and glittering decorations, eyes unaccustomed not only to the sight of Orientals in court-dress, but to that of stately diplomats as well, with orders on their breasts, swords at their sides, and cocked hats in hand. To startle with his fierceness the many eyes that gazed that night, there was a mustachioed grenadier with a plumed Pickelhaube on his giant head, and to entrance the onlooker with his manly grace, a blue hussar with dolman, sabretash, and tasseled boots. But the most impressive marcher in that unwonted procession was a noble knight of Calatrava in a cloak that swept the floor majestically; the quaintest being, without a doubt, a little ocher-colored Korean who wore high up on his glossy coiffure a contrivance of wire that looked for all the world like a fly-trap.

When the last pair of spurs had begun to click to the wearer's forward step, I glanced into the room in which these men of many lands had assembled and, to my consternation, saw a scarlet-clad figure entering its farthest door. Again Cardinal Gibbons had been overlooked, and to save an unpleasant situation, I introduced myself forthwith as one appointed to await his coming. Offering him my arm, I led him past a slowly moving procession to a place near its head belonging to him as a prince of the church; and from that chance meeting I have carried through the years an impression of an upright man, at once kindly and courtly, in a word, "a wealthy priest, but rich without a fault."

Of the ceremonies during which the edifices so magically built by Daniel H. Burnham were tendered by him to the officers of the Exposition, then dedicated to humanity by Vice-President Morton, my recollection is less vivid. I remember, however, that medals in recognition of their truly wonderful achievements were given not only to architects such as Charles F. McKim, Richard M. Hunt, Stanford White, and Frederick Law Olmstead, but to Louis Sullivan, William Holabird, Francis Meredith Whitehouse, and other Chicagoans whom I was glad to find were not without honor in their own land, neglect or ridicule rather than recognition being only too often the lot of Americans who devote their lives to what Mr. Higinbotham, the president of the fair, spoke of that day as "the civilizing arts."

§2

Painting and sculpture, too, were acclaimed when, for its beautification at their hands, a grateful exposition awarded its medals to Augustus Saint-Caudens, Frederick MacMonnies, Francis D. Millet, Carroll Beckwith, and a number of their confreres, as well as to Chicago's gifted citizens, Lorado Taft and Walter McEwen. Literature, moreover, was remembered, and local talent also, when Miss Harriet Monroe's "Dedication Ode" was read to an audience of a hundred thousand souls, who, to us upon the platform, were, in words of Robert Browning, "human beings, like spiders newly hatched."

These happenings were in 1892. On May day, in the following year, Grover Cleveland came to press the button that was to start gigantic wheels, and, at the same time, send the Stars and Stripes fluttering up a gilded pole between the banner of Castile and that of Ferdinand and Isabella, the Catholic sovereigns. But before these flags were given to the fitful breezes of a day, half rain, half sunshine, a great President said:

"The machinery that gives life to this vast exposition is now set in motion. So, at the same instant, let our hopes and aspirations awaken forces which in all times to come shall influence the welfare, the dignity, and the freedom of mankind."

Five years later to a minute, through one of fate's strange ironies, the epauleted officers who listened to this idealism of their commander-in-chief were directing in Manila Bay the fire of ruthless guns against the very flag in whose honor cannon boomed when he had finished speaking. But the crowd, surging before a platform while women fainted in its midst, thought not of war or peace or idealism, but of how to edge closer to the Duke of Veragua in order to see his resplendent uniform and gilded collar of the Golden Fleece.

At the invitation of Congress, this descendant of Columbus had come to view the exquisite buildings that had arisen beside the belching chimneys of what, until then, the world had looked upon as the least imaginative of its cities. He was a stately grandee, with features such as Goya would have taken delight in painting; and when he reached the shores of Lake Michigan, he was escorted in pomp to his hotel by the yellow-plumed cavalry and blue-coated infantry of his host, the American nation. Being of a race whose manners are courteous and whose ways are leisurely, he did not view himself in the light of a nine days' wonder, but rather as the guest of a rich and powerful people invited, as its emissary had led him to believe, not for a day or a week, but for the duration of an exposition held to commemorate the achievement of his ancestor.

An official in Washington who counted the very pennies of the ducal board-bill thought otherwise; so, in due course of time, this guest of our people was bluntly told that he had outstayed his welcome. When in chagrin he departed, no blue-coated soldiers stood in line to honor him with their salute; but at my instigation, I having been at the time the honorary consul of his land, a troop of amateur hussars sat on black chargers before his hotel, ready to escort him to his train. Not being enrolled in either the regular army or the organized militia, the honor these troopers paid was without official significance; yet they rode fine horses and carried gleaming sabers; so when they wheeled into line before his Grace's carriage, they looked an imposing escort, and to his European eye they appeared as soldiers of his host. Thus by a pardonable subterfuge was a heart humiliated by official discourtesy made glad for the moment. This duke and his duchess, let me add, were gentlefolk as unpretentious as any it has been my good fortune to meet, while the courtesy once shown by them to me in their native land was of a kind such as I shall remember always with delight and gratitude.

The Infanta Eulalia of Spain also came to Chicago as the nation's guest in that year 1893, and being of royal birth, she set the city's heart aflutter. By nature a joyous Parisienne rather than the proud and haughty Spaniard of romance or the gracious princess of fairy-tales, her playing of the part of royalty was at variance with the exalted notion of it held by a city remote from kings and their majesty, and believing with Euripides that "it is necessary for a prince to please the many."

Now, the pretty princess who journeyed across the seas Columbus had sailed thought not of pleasing the many, but rather of pleasing her own vivacious self, she being a somewhat wilful lady, filled to overflowing with la joie de vivre. She was accompanied, furthermore, by a royal husband who took delight, like a calif of old, in roaming incognito in search of questionable adventures through the streets of the city by night. Being the antithesis of democracy's own picture of royalty, this princely pair was not the ideal one to present it in a favorable light; and when it became apparent that neither the infanta nor her consort would play the royal part in the pompous way in which it had been written into the agenda of the Exposition, many an official heart was in despair.

Upon the very evening of her arrival, in fact, and while sky-rockets were still exploding in her honor behind a white peristyle, her Royal Highness said to me in a tone of ennui: "In Havana, in New York, and in Washington, which cities I have visited since leaving Spain, and now in Chicago, it has ever been the same tiresome story of officials to meet, officials to placate, and officials to bore me to distraction. I want to see the World's Fair in peace and in comfort and without an official in sight. You must arrange it."

Being a young man still in the twenties, the idea of protecting a fair princess from pestering officials appealed to me, I confess, as an adventure at once bold and romantic. To a telephone, therefore, I went straightway, and called up Allison Armour. Although only a namesake of the founder of a noted industry, and not in any way related to him, this friend in need possessed, nevertheless, sufficient worldly goods to have enabled him to be the owner of a steam-yacht named the Gryphon, which speedy little craft he agreed to have within hail, off the the lake-front, on the morrow. Every day during a fortnight Allison Armour and I managed to spirit the infanta aboard her, and, after reaching the Exposition grounds, to land first at one place, then at another, but always with a retinue of wheeled chairs in waiting.

Besides the infanta and the bold conspirators, the party during these clandestine cruises was composed of two ladies of the city, whose presence had been royally commanded, and her Highness's own suite, consisting of the Spanish minister plenipotentiary, the cynical and sophisticated grandee who was the royal chamberlain, an ancient marchioness who played the dual role of duenna and lady-in-waiting, and an American naval officer, who, detailed as official escort to royalty, was incongruously accompanied by his wife and a daughter still in her teens.

Once having set foot within the Exposition grounds, the infanta was usually able to enjoy herself undisturbed until the luncheon hour, and during these unceremonious wanderings she proved to be a delightful as well as a merry companion. At "Old Vienna," however, at the "German Village," the "Pickwick Inn," or wherever her noonday repast had been ordered, the reporters were pretty certain to discover her, generally about the time when, in her most affable mood, she had lighted an after-luncheon cigarette. Her gracious manner changed then to one of coldness or even of vexation should an official chance to enter the royal presence and proffer his services.

The story of her ill humor at the reception given for her by Mrs. Potter Palmer I prefer to tell in the graphic words of Mrs. William J. Calhoun, who, before marrying a minister plenipotentiary and learning by a court experience of her own how to judge of royal breaches of etiquette, used, as Lucy Monroe, to assist in editing that little magazine of enchanting memory, "The Chap Book."

"Unfortunately," says this accomplished lady, in "Chicago Yesterdays," "the Infanta learned that her host to be was the landlord of the hotel where she was lodged. An innkeeper she thought him, and therefore unworthy to entertain a princess. She was constrained at last to put in an appearance, but she arrived an hour late and departed outrageously early, making no response, meanwhile, to the greetings of the guests as they were presented.

She sat upon the dais, which, with too much courtesy perhaps, had been prepared for her, in sullen, unsmiling, unbending silence, while her beautiful hostess, standing at her side and offering martyred Chicago society at her altar, tried in vain to thaw the icy atmosphere."

Being a Spanish official at the time, I had my own unpleasant moments, too, such as when at a party given by my wife and myself I was obliged, on account of the infanta's aversion for officials and desire to be surrounded only by gay and amusing people, to seat at a supper-table other than hers not only the Spanish commissioner-general, whom she disliked heartily, but Carter Harrison as well, whose Southern hospitality she had enjoyed at the house in which but a few months later he met death at the hand of an assassin. Indeed, my most vivid memory of the courtly old politician who so adored to rule Chicago is not of the impressive sweep of the hand with which he was wont to doff his slouch-hat to a cheering multitude while riding through the streets, but of the hurt look that crossed his benign face when he discovered that although mayor of the city, his seat was not to be at the royal table.

Had not the Infanta Eulalia rebelled against her own caste since then, and expressed in candid words her contempt for it, I should have been loath to tell, even in borrowed words, of the incidents of her visit that angered Chicago. To her entourage she was graciousness itself, and to have been her courtier for a day was an amusing experience. Yet the memory of it, coupled with stories told me by friends who were behind the scenes during other royal visits, has led me to suspect that a monarchy may best serve its own interests, in a democracy such as ours, by keeping its royal persons at home.

§3

My glimpse of court life was luckily too short to prevent me from enjoying happiness during it or from attaining it elsewhere, this, according to La Bruyere, being the fate of those who haunt royal antechambers. Nor was it the experience of World's Fair days to which I look back with the keenest pleasure. For such a memory I must turn from white buildings beside a blue lake to the lawn of my father-in-law, Senator Charles B. Farwell, where under his greenwood tree the Augustin Daly Company gave, for the benefit of a creche in the Exposition grounds, its only al fresco performance of "As You Like It."

No doubt the dual role of publicity and property man played by me upon this occasion was humble. Yet it was not without its difficulties, particularly when I was called upon to stick a number of freshly hewn saplings into the ground beneath the gnarled oaks of Lake Forest in such a way that the actors might have their exits and their entrances between them, and the tents that served as tiring-rooms be hidden by them, while the saplings themselves appeared as the undergrowth of the Forest of Arden.

Still, in spite of my arduous duties, this performance lingers in memory, together with Celia's words in the play, as "wonderful, wonderful, and most wonderful wonderful." It had, in fact, a joyousness, a naturalness, and a youthful buoyancy such as I have never seen beneath a spot-light. Ada Rehan, girlish and exuberant, was "Rosalind of many parts," the virtuous Orlando being John Drew who, though verging on forty, still looked to be a youth of twenty. "The melancholy Jaques" was played by George Clarke, and Audrey, "honest in deed and word," by pretty Isabelle Irving.

James Lewis, the inimitable, was Touchstone; yet upon the first sunny day of a rainy June the part was not to his liking, his legs, though still nimble, being, alas! rheumatic. So, when not making merry as a motley fool, he stood upon a pair of wooden blocks which when it became his cue to cry, "Come apace, good Audrey, I will fetch up your goats," he hid behind a tree. Yet he but cursed beneath his breath the cruel lord and manager who had forced him to play upon wet grass; whereas John Drew, when he appeared in grease-paint in the dazzling glare of a noonday sun, nearly broke up the performance; for when Ada Rehan saw him she burst into laughter, "John," said she in a perfectly audible stage whisper, "you look like a Pawnee." The audience meanwhile joined the chaste Rosalind in her mirth, the actors being unable to play their parts coherently until Orlando had removed his war-paint.

This thought of John Drew, grease-painted in broad daylight, recalls a joyous evening passed with him in the little cafe" which in more convivial days than these was to be found in the tunnel under Congress Street connecting two of Chicago's hotels. There, with a zither-player who made sweet music for us upon his instrument and the waiter who served us from time to time as our sole companions, John and I made good cheer while chatting the whole night through; for when we emerged, the sun was rising over a wind-swept lake. Alas! I wonder if friendship such as a poet has ealled "the mysterious cement of the soul" is not doomed to disappear from the face of American earth!

Had Eugene Field never yielded to any worldly temptation, had he been animated solely by a spirit such as the one that caused his ancestors and mine to lash helpless women with bared backs through the streets of New England towns merely because they were Quakers,—a spirit still abroad, I fear, — could he have penned the generous and sympathetic words of this letter received from him at the time my first book, a novel of Chicago, was being slated by the local critics?

"My dear Taylor: If you intend to follow writing as a profession, you must cultivate your skin until it becomes a hide—the hide of a pachyderm. I have been all through the experience with which you are beginning. The Herald said of my first book that it was evidently written by a man who lampooned Chicago society because he could n't get into it. I believe it is better to be antagonized than to be patronized. Go right along doing the best work of which you are capable and you are bound to succeed in spite of the ill will of some people. There are in the midst of us many who, incapable of ambitious endeavor, themselves, envy and hate those who do try to do somewhat and to be somebody. Do not let these creatures worry you. After a while they will be only too glad to fawn upon you. With all faith in your future, and with honest regard for your abilities, ambition and pluck, I am and shall be ever your friend,

"Eugene Field.
"December the tenth, 1891."

I was one of Eugene Field's pallbearers, and whenever I hear his name, sadness enters my heart. Full of sympathy and understanding such as he expresses in this letter, he was a genius both lovable and unaccountable, as true to his friends as he was tender to children.

His mentor, Dr. Frank W. Reilly, beside whose sanctum Field used to sit with his feet on a desk while writing "Sharps and Flats," is another one whose place in my affection is still vacant. Long before he became the editor of the morning edition of the Chicago "Daily News," and, by frequent and fervent quotation from Horace, the inspirer of Field's love for a Sabine farm, "Doc" Reilly, as his friends used to call him, had served as a surgeon in the Civil War, a mellowing experience that may account for my recollection of him as the most human editor I ever knew. The kindest, too, let me add, since he used to accept my articles, and even trust me with difficult assignments in the days when I was apprenticed to the newspaper craft.

In memory I see Field and Reilly strolling together into the remote and delectable corner of McClurg's bookstore over which for many a year George Millard presided. There sit the Rev. Frank W. Gunsaulus, the Rev. M. Mosely Stryker, and the Rev. Frank M. Bristol, its "Saints," thumbing rare tomes in company with George Armour, Ben Cable, and "Charlie" Barnes, who were its "Sinners."

The fear, alas! of being an unwelcome Philistine kept me from venturing too near this hallowed spot, though I longed to hear the bibliophilic ravings of

"Maniacs shrewd or imbecillic,
Urban, pastoral or idyllic,
Richly clad or dishabillic,"
When, "George Millard is home!"

Fear came upon me, too, and also trembling, when with manuscript in hand I ventured up-stairs to the lair of General Alexander C. McClurg. In wearing gray side-whiskers of the style known as "Burnsides" during the war, of which they both were veterans, this publisher and bookseller resembled Doctor Reilly. Yet here the likeness ceased, for never did the general sit in an oyster-house at midnight with a plate of Rockaways and a bottle of claret before him; nor did he share the editor's keen sense of humor, since he even looked upon the free advertising Eugene Field gave his rare-book department daily in "Sharps and Flats" as an offense against the dignity of literature. But he was a gentleman of the old school, who in manner was courtliness itself. He published my first book, moreover; hence there is affection for him in my heart; while in my recollection there is a stirring picture of him standing sword in hand before a gray-coated regiment with white cross-belts and immaculate duck trousers, he having been the first commander of Chicago's "Dandy First."

§4

Others who are gone cross the stage of memory like actors after the curtain has fallen: my debonair friends and clever publishers, Herbert S. and Melville E. Stone, Jr., sons of a grand old father, and victims, the one of the Lusitania, the other of a dread disease; Major Lyman B. Glover, the dramatic critic, who, by inducing me to talk upon Moliere in a course of lectures he was arranging for a woman's club, led me unawares into a path in which I wandered for years; and engaging "Biff" Hall, too, newspaper man, justice of the peace, and scintillating president of the Forty Club in the days when every actor in the land who starred enjoyed its hospitality. One by one they pass: William Morton Payne, apostle of good literature; Bert Leston Taylor, with his "Line o' Type or Two" to rival "Sharps and Flats"; Emerson Hough, his glance as keen as that of the pioneer sitting rifle in hand in a covered wagon; and, finally, Charles Francis Browne, the modest painter whose heart was the bravest I have ever known, whose ideals were dimmed only by death.

The most enchanting heart still beats, I am glad to say, though shyly, in the breast of Henry B. Fuller, whose grace of style and whimsicality led James Russell Lowell to exclaim, after reading "The Chevalier of Pensieri-Vani," "A precious book; it tastes of genius." To us (we are, alas! too few) who know his insight, subtlety, and quaint perception, the books of "Henry B.," as we fondly call him, are precious still; and since his mind is of "a diviner pattern" than any of ours, he fulfils for us Horace's conception of a genius.

High up in a sky-scraper that has been profitably consecrated to the fine arts there is a studio leased by Ralph Clarkson, doyen of Chicago painters. On one of its walls hangs "Las Meninas," reproduced by the tenant's skilled hand; and, to invoke with still more incongruity in the midst of a city seething with commerce not only the spirit of Velasquez, but of his land as well, there stands against another wall a Spanish cabinet with rusty lock and a nest of tiny drawers inlaid with ivory and gold. Into this soothing spot "Henry B." flutters on Friday in his shy way, for while it is a painter's studio six days of the week, on Dies Veneris it is "The Little Room."

A wealth of charming memory lies for me in this name of a club composed of Chicagoans who practise the fine arts, a name derived, I believe, from the title of a story by one of its founders, in which there is a ghostly little room that disappears and reappears at intervals. To me, however, it is Shakspere's "little room confining mighty men." A grandiose phrase, perhaps, with which to describe a studio where the few and lonely artists of a commercial city gather to talk joyfully for an hour, while drinking tea together, a language not of its streets. But if, as Bulwer Lytton says, "The pen is mightier than the sword," those who use it should be mightier than warriors; and if this be so, are not the wielders of both brush and chisel mighty, too, I ask?

But mighty men alone are not to be found in the Little Room. At a table, in fact, where Clara Laughlin is pouring tea from a samovar (if you 're going to Paris be sure to make her acquaintance), I see, in memory, Jane Addams sitting beside Fannie Bloomfield Zeisler, and surely they are mighty women. Elia W. Peattie, delightful as her stories, perceptive as her book-reviews, sits there, too, in company with valiant Anna Morgan, whose love for Chicago is "a malady without a cure," and upon whose little stage, two floors below, many a play by Ibsen, Maeterlinck, Shaw, Yeats, or Lady Gregory has received at the hands of her clever pupils its first American performance.


In a corner, where there is a divan beneath a hanging lamp, is Harriet Monroe, founder of "Poetry" and discoverer of poets, and there in "sweet clover," too, sits Clara Louise Burnham, side by side with Edith Wyatt, who is enjoying "great companions," I suspect; for hovering near, with cup in hand, I see Lorado Taft, and Robert Herrick. Of "men of enchanting spirit" there is, indeed, "dear variety": Will Payne, for example; Henry Kitchell Webster; I. K. Friedman; Frederic Clay Bartlett; and "Bob" Peattie, as I am constrained to call him, "Robert Bruce" being far too stately a name for one of his good-fellowship and parts.

Yes, and into that room of dear memory come the McCuteheons,— John T., cartoonist and mighty hunter, with his Majesty, George Barr of Graustark; likewise Harrison Rhodes, another delightful friend, who sits afar off today upon a reviewing-stand. At the threshold these three are greeted, as is every one, by Ralph Clarkson, most courteous of painters, and in their wake I see George Ade, Rex Beach, and "Mr. Dooley," though they are but occasional visitors rather than habitue's of the Little Room. But standing near its steaming samovar of a certainty are Wallace Rice, the poet, and Oliver Dennett Grover, the painter. There of a certainty, too, expounding his views upon art, is Hamlin Garland, "the handsome Westerner," as Mr. Thomas Beer calls him, who has done fine things besides writing, such as creating the Cliff Dwellers Club, but nothing half so fine as being "the rescuing angel" of Stephen Crane.

Indeed, it is not as the world's butcher that I dream of Chicago, nor as a smoke-ridden Babel where thirty tongues are spoken by as many alien races, and murder is of almost daily occurrence. Rather is it of a city out of which a university sprang fully equipped, like Athens from the head of Zeus, and where from the ashes of a holocaust three libraries have arisen; a city, moreover, where a hall for an orchestra and an auditorium to house a civic opera company have been built by the public spirit of its citizens, as well as one in which a marble museum of natural history and an art institute attended by more students and entered by more visitors than any other in the land are standing where, in boyhood, I sailed with my father in a white-winged sloop. But the Chicago of my deepest affection is under the skylights where the painters, sculptors, musicians, and writers who are my dear friends still strive with might and main to foster and spread abroad the spirit of the idealism that has brought these and other fine things to pass within the material place in which I was born, a city that has grown fifteen-fold during my lifetime, and numbers now some three million souls instead of a paltry two hundred thousand.

 

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